A Discussion on the Pattern Making Process for a Selected Dress

A Discussion on the Pattern Making Process for a Selected Dress

Why a Discussion on Pattern Making Process?

As we need patterns to form a final dress, we worked on making patterns according to our inspiration and selected dress style. The inspiration of the dress was ‘Breath of fresh air’- a post pandemic liberating expression when the world came out from their confined zones to take the breath of fresh air. As we have already discussed the season, customer profile, theme board, mood board and all the necessary information in our portfolio, we are just covering the process report of pattern.


  • Introduction
  • Some background of the work
  • A list of pattern pieces
  • Tops
  • Front bodice (right and left)
  • Back bodice (cut on fold)
  • Sleeve
  • Bottom Portion
  • Front skirt (layer 1 and 2)
  • Front skirt (layer 3)
  • Basic skirt (back)
  • Production pattern
  • Sewing details
  • Conclusion

Some background of the work:

Theme name: Breath of fresh air

Season: Spring/ Summer 2022 Dress category: Casual Streetwear Customer profile:

Gender: Female

Age: 18-25

Country: United States of America (USA)

Region: New York City

Educatonal status: A-leve to undergrad student

Occupaton: Student

Monthly expense: $2000

Hobby: Travelling, reading

Figure 1 Final dress sketch. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba.

A list of pattern pieces:

  • Front bodice (right)
  • Front bodice (left)
  • Back bodice (cut on fold)
  • Sleeve (1*2= 2)
  • Skirt (Front) Layer 1, Layer 2.
  • Skirt (Front) Layer 3
  • Skirt (Back) Layer 4

Size of the pattern: All the patterns are made using the measurement of the size 10 dummy.


We have mainly done the patterns in two stages- 1. Basic block and 2. Production Pattern (by adding allowance to the basic block)

1. Basic Block

Front bodice (right and left)

The front bodice is mainly done using the basic bodice and a touch of dart manipulation.


Figure 1: Basic bodice (front). Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba


As our top is asymmetrical, we couldn’t just make the two parts of the front bodice same by cut and fold. That is why, we had to take the basic bodice, then cut and fold and then we had to perform dart manipulation.


Figure 2: The full part pattern with dart manipulation. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba


Figure 3: Two parts (right and left) of the front bodice with darts. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba


Back bodice (cut on fold)

For our dress, we kept the basic back bodice. The basic back bodice was made with the size 10 dummy measurement. This is done by cut and fold.


Figure 4: Basic bodice.(back). Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba.



The sleeve is made according to the basic sleeve.

Figure 5: Sleeve. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba

Bottom Portion

Front skirt (layer 1 and 2)


According to our design, we have developed the pattern into three layers for the front skirt.


The basic front skirt is firstly cut on fold and then it is customized according to the design of the dress using vary from curve ruler. Two patterns are made in this way. The layer 1 and 2. The layer 2 is 3 ich longer than the layer 1



Figure 6: Layer 1, 2 and 3 of front skirt. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba

The front skirt is made by using the basic front skirt.


Front skirt (layer 3)

The layer 3 is made by using the flipped version of the layer 2.


Basic skirt (back)

Figure 7: Basic skirt. (back). Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba.

The back of the bottom part of the dress is developed using the basic skirt. It is used for cut and fold.


Production pattern:

Patterns are traced and made again using seam allowance.



Figure 8: Two parts (right and left) of the front bodice with darts(Production pattern). Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba.

Figure 9: : Basic bodice.(back) Production Pattern. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba.

Figure 10: Sleeve (Production pattern) Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba










Bottom portion



Figure 11: Layer 1 and 2 of Front skirt (Production pattern). Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba

Figure 12: Basic skirt. (back) Production pattern. Photo courtesy: Kazi Purba

Sewing details:

Side seam is done by chain stitch using Overlock machine.

And the others are done by Plain stitch using Single needle lock stitch machine.


The patterns were made with reference to the basic blocks we created in our early pattern courses.They were traced and then customized accordingly. The basic patterns that we learnt to make, gave us a great opportunity to understand more complex patterns and thus we implemented them to make patterns for our designed dress. The previous actions (eg. Theme board, mood board, etc.) and further actions were taken accordingly to make the dress which we have covered in the portfolio.

The report was written by: Kazi Purba, the Founder and President of Fashionnovation, for his final year Portfolio project in Department of Textile Fashion and Design, Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX).

For any query or if you want to publish your articles in our website, please email: fashionnovationfd@gmail.com

As you’re interested in pattern making process, you’ll also be interested in fashion draping.

You can also read all of our fashion trend related articles here:

Fashion in the 21st century for learning about the overall fashion trends of this century

Fashion trends of 2019, 2021, 2022 and 2023 you’ll also get to know some basics of fashion trends.



12 Basic Fashion Studies Sketches Done by Students That Will Inspire You In Your Next Fashion Study Lab Work

12 Basic Fashion Studies Sketches Done by Students That Will Inspire You In Your Next Fashion Study Lab Work

To get a jump start to Fashion Designing, students need to go through a round of exercises and studies of Basic Fashion Studies Sketches. For Basic Fashion Designing practical course, the students of Textile Fashion and Design, batch: 46 and 47 have done extensive study on space, shape and form. As an exhibition, record and inspiration, the works of three young designers- Soumeen Tasnim, Ripa Sanjida and Fariha Ahmad Jim are presented below! Let us inspire these two young members of Fashionnovation by our kind words and sharing their works with each other.

Study on Space

Soumeen Tasnim

Figure : Positive and Negative space

Figure : Positive and Negative space

Ripa Sanjida

Figure Positive and Negative space

Fariha Ahmad Jim

Positive and Negative Space

Study on shape

Soumeen Tasnim

Figure : Organic shape

Figure Composition of organic shape

Figure Geometric shape

Figure : Composition of geometric shape

Ripa Sanjida

Figure Study on shape (organic and composition of organic)

Figure Study on geometric shape

Fariha Ahmad Jim

Figure: Geometric Shape

Figure: Organic shape

Study on form

Soumeen Tasnim

Figure Study on form

Figure Composition of form

Ripa Sanjida

Figure Study on form

Fariha Ahmad Jim

The students are from the Department of Textile Fashion and Design (TFD) of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX).

Send us your works to get featured and get worldwide exposure!

You’ll also be interested to read this article:

12 Fashion Illustrations Done by Students Which Will Blow Your Mind

Our Fashionnovation members don’t only draw sketches, they also create many creative and complex draping. To check that out, you can check our Fashion draping, variation of cascade article!

A Great Present for TFD-46, Made With Sacrifice, Defying All the Odds

A Great Present for TFD-46, Made With Sacrifice, Defying All the Odds

In the Covid-19 lockdown everyone got bored. The new batch of each and every university of Bangladesh got double bored because they had nothing to do rather than being stuck at home. That’s why Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) started its online classes for the latest batch in Zoom as soon as possible in the month of July. As everything was online, they also had to do their orientation class online. The interesting thing is, the teachers tried to keep each and every segment of the orientation intact as the last years so that the students don’t get deprive of. And so they also wanted to keep an orientation video for the latest batch of the Department of Textile Fashion and Design (TFD). As the current batch’s number is 46, we call the batch TFD-46. So our Honourable Head of the Department, Md. Mahmudul Hasan sir decided to give this duty to Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba, our Fashionnovation’s founder to make a poster and an orientation video documentary as soon as possible within two days. He gave his complete support to make it happen. So, Kazi Purba started working with all what he got. Finishing the poster, he had to make the video and there were a lot of parts associated with it- relevant photos, proper information about the history of TFD, proper script, video editing, B-roles and voice over. Moreover, there was no previous documentary of TFD. This was the first one to be made. As everything was locked down, there wasn’t any scope for taking new video footage or photos also.  Everything is possible when there’s a proper device. But the fun part is, Kazi Purba’s device started to hang and most devastating fact is his smartphone was down for a month and his tablet went down that day without any proper reason! Staying calm in these hostile situations, Kazi Purba quickly contacted with his friends and his junior Sabiha Moon Taha. Sabiha came to the rescue! Within a very short notice, she collected a lot of relevant photos, made a slide show presentation and handed over it to him. Kazi Purba’s batch mates also shared some photos spontaneously. Luckily in the night, the laptop started working properly and Kazi Purba became a beast. He reconstructed everything, literally each and everything. Made a script, collected necessary videos and B-roles, used Sabiha’s collections, triple checked all the information and stitched them all into one in his Adobe Premiere Pro editor. All night he worked on it and in the dawn when he just had to give the voice over, the laptop got hanged and the video editor collapsed! Only within 3 hours or less the programme was going to start!


But hope springs eternal in the human breast!  Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba stood up, went to see the morning sun and the sparrows in the veranda. After returning, he got his command over his laptop again! A sigh of relief! Now it’s data recovery time! By the grace of Almighty, he passed the acid test. Another sigh of relief! Now the voice over time! But the noise of transport is proportional to the time goes! So each time a car honks, Kazi Purba had to erase each tiny voice over. There wasn’t any time for him to edit the voice in Audacity or other noise cancellation softwares. With much struggle, finally the voice over was done! But it was almost 10 am! With some revisions and further editing, it was time for rendering. But it started taking a lifetime! After an eternity, the video got rendered. Kazi Purba got thrilled and super happy to watch the final video! It felt like a child to him and just like a new father, with much pleasure and excitement, he uploaded the video and sent it to Naila Sharmin Kanta madam. It reached her just at the eleventh hour! After her confirmation of receiving, Kazi Purba felt a great relief, went to tell his mom not to wake him up and just threw himself in the bed just like a little child!

If you think that the rest was a success, you are wrong! Actually the video got stuck while playing in the Zoom conference! No one could watch that for technical difficulties. So the video was kept within us with much care and affection till date!

Often times, we only hear about the success, we don’t know the stories behind it! The stories of struggle and surpassing them with massive positivity and proactiveness remain silent to us. The story of this Documentary making is such an example. Actually it’s not a mere video. Rather it’s a great present for you, the students of TFD-46 and all the TFDians from Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba. It’s his child to make you proud and happy!

A Fresher’s Thoughts on the Department of Textile Fashion and Design

A Fresher’s Thoughts on the Department of Textile Fashion and Design

My name is Md. Asaduzzaman Ovi. I am a student of the Department of Textile Fashion and Design of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX). I am in the junior most batch of this university.

First of all, I couldn’t imagine that I would study about textiles. At that time I had no idea about textiles. But during the admission test I got some idea about textile engineering from some older brothers and sisters..BUTEXian brothers used to come to Udvash coaching centre to take classes. Then I learned some more information about Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX). There are 10 departments in total. Our Textile Fashion and Design department has 40 seets. Then I picked up BUTEX’s admission form. BUTEX’s older brother helped me a lot, when I took the BUTEX admission test exam. Also they helped a lot the day when I went to the campus to get admitted. Then I got into this Textile Fashion and Design department .Ever since then I have been interested in fashion.

Thoughts, fantasies, dreams bloomed about this Textile Fashion and Design since that day. Then I joined some older brothers and sisters of BUTEX on facebook. They are very helpful. They gave me a lot of information about fashion and textiles. They give ideas about the courses of BUTEX. But before the class started on our campus, the Corona pandemic stroke. Even then the BUTEX authority announced us an online orientation and they did it. From then our online class started. Our teachers are taking their classes in a very beautiful way. Textile fashion and design is not just about fashion. Everything related to the ancillary engineering topics are taught here. And many people think of fashion as just a department related to clothes. Fashion is a subject that is related to our daily lives. What should I do to make this world a better place with the choice of materials for manufacturing my clothes, what kind of clothes should I wear, what kind of food should I eat, what kind of phone should I use, these are a kind of fashion. These are the ones that provide beauty through design. But fashion and design are more used with clothes.

Md. Asaduzzaman Ovi                                                                                    Department of Textile Fashion and Design,                                                                  Bangladesh University of Textiles,