![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | Jun 29, 2021 | Academic |
Textile in space is a dream that human beings have seen beyond the use of textiles in mere clothings as a covering.
As we continue our journey to reach the stars following with the previous chapter of Textile in Space, we will surely come to know some of the amazing applications of textile in both space and aerospace. We have already come to know some of the key features for space textiles (such as fiber, yarn, fabric) which are essential to be converted into intricate and highly modern aero-crafts.
Nonetheless, a good strength to weight ratio, high abrasion resistance, extremely light-weight, flexibility, durability, comfortability, mechanical and chemical resistance are some of the compulsory features of textiles in this regard. And keeping this in mind, the developed technical textiles are serving in this textile space field with no sweat!
Textile in space: In Aircraft Manufacturing- When Dream Becomes Reality to Reach the Space!
Textiles have been used by human beings since the pre-historic time. Only the recent researches for the past few decades have led to the concept of developing technical textiles in space. One of the major fields of applications of textile is in the process of aircraft manufacturing and related products. Surely, getting to know some of the applications will give us a glimpse on how our dream to reach the stars in becoming a reality!
The broken parts of rotor blade can operate as projectile and form external effect. So, woven structure and material such as Kevlar, Nylon, glass fiber metal resign, aromatic polyamide and carbon/epoxy composite structures are used to decrease the impact damage. These textile materials co-operate with flight surface and help the rotor inner side for covering against ballistic damage.
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Aircraft Interior Design, another example of textile in space:
Inside the aircraft and spacecraft- from furnishing textiles to wall covering, floor carpet, seat & seat belts, curtains and other interior designs are formed from textile composites. In the automotive sector as well as aircraft, spacecraft and onboard ships, drive belts are now used in the engine. In the past, they were primarily made of rubber or flexible plastic. Now coated with textiles or textile mixtures have established durability, comfortability, safety in many applications. They must determine qualities that affect in everyday use to clean easily, to be fire –resistant and free of pollutants that could vaporize and pollute the air. Modern textile materials like microfibers, nanotechnology and new plastics have remodel the use of textiles in interiors.
The Interior of a spacecraft for which technical textile materials are one of the the primary elements to manufacture. Courtesy: Unspash.
Parachutes are necessary for the protection for the pilots, aviators and passengers of the aircraft. Raw materials used in the parachutes are high performance fibers such as Nylon, Polyester, Kevlar, Nomex and so on. More specifically, parachutes are made up of high tenacity fire resistant material called ‘Rip-stop Nylon 6.6 fabric’ with tough and durable coatings for heat and air retention. Some other important characteristics for these materials to obtain are UV protection, heat and abrasion resistant, water proofness, high specific strength and light weight.
Parachute systems for space and military, an example of textile in space. Courtesy: Aerospace America.
A space suit, mostly worn by astronauts, is a pressurized garment which is useful during space flights. This suit performs as the ultimate protective clothing that protects the astronauts from damaging conditions in the space where a single sand can be dangerous for its extreme speed. It is also known as Extra Vehicular Mobility unit (EMU).
From feet to head, spacesuit consists of many parts which performs various tasks like containing tubes that supply oxygen, protecting from high pressure and dust in space, containing electric conductors etc. Under the suit, astronauts wear another piece of clothing named liquid cooling and ventilation garment that interlinks with the tubes. Water flows through the tubes to keep astronaut cool. Since, containing oxygen is a must in order to survive in space, a good oxygen chamber is required. Hence, on the back of the space suit, there is a backpack made from technical textiles that holds oxygen and removes carbon dioxide to make easy breathing system for astronauts. It also supplies electricity for the suit. According to the required functional purpose, materials like Dacron, Neoprene, Kevlar, Spandex etc. are used to make spacesuit.
Man Wearing Space Suit, taking textile in space. Courtesy: Pixabay.
G-Suit is a special flight suit worn by aviators, astronauts or fighter pilot in aircraft who are commanded to go against high levels of acceleration force or gravitational force(g). Also, owing to the name as Anti-Gravity Suit, this item is designed to avoid a black-out and g-Loc (g-induced loss of consciousness) generated by the blood pooling in the lower part of the body when under acceleration. This suit is, therefore, necessary as black-out and g-Loc have caused a number of disastrous aircraft accidents previously.
A dummy wearing an Anti-g Suit trousers and cummerbund fitted over a flying suit. Source: Wikipedia.
G-suits consists of artificial inflatable bladders, having air or liquid that can be pressurized using a g-sensitive valve. This also has controlled firm to legs and abdomen under high values of g.
Future Development of Textile in Space Products-What is Coming Next?
Every kilogram that needs to be launched in a spacecraft is so important that it increases both fuel utilization and costs! Lightweight, high strength, cost efficiency, ease of working with the materials and safety are all parameters that should be achieved in developing textiles. Innovations like incorporating bionics into the development of new textiles can open entirely new solutions for engineers and scientists.
A spacecraft during its launch and ready to reach the stars! Photo Taken at the Kennedy Space Center, USA. Courtesy: Unsplash.
In 2015, NASA revealed to try to get humans living on Mars by 2030. If these plans are to be performed successfully, then it’s a consideration that textile materials can be made not only from a clothing and safety perspective, but also can be used structurally to understand the optimal living conditions. Nonetheless, the designers have to work days and nights to figure out the best possible anatomy of a spacesuit! As the weather in Mars is extremely unfavorable, no specimens have yet returned to Earth from Mars which is still the biggest challenge in making space suits. For this regard, NASA is preparing the Futuristic Z-2 space suit of Z-2 prototype for the next generation!
As we come to an end to our space journey, we certainly realize textile is not just used only for daily uses or enhancing beauty but also for protecting from hazardous environments in air, outer-space, Mars or any other outer planet. This field of application is nothing but innovative and cool! Thus, textile especially, technical textiles enabled us to conquer any innovative plan about space and decrease mortal accidents caused by dangerous space area and also allow us to definitely fulfill our dream to reach the stars!
By Team Bespoke:
Mentor: Tasphia Zaman (TFD 44, ID: 2018-1-6-009)
Leader: Khadiza Sharmin (TFD 45, ID: 2019-1-6-015)
Executive: Nahema Haque Khushe (TFD 46, ID: 2020-1-6-002)
References:
Image 1: https://unsplash.com/photos/n463SoeSiVY
Image 2: https://unsplash.com/@nasa
Image 3: https://unsplash.com/photos/NCvvr837fz8
As you seem to be both tech savvy and fashionista, you will enjoy our premium article on Textile in space: Flying up to reach the stars!
To know the biggest fashion trends of 21st century, you can visit here! Moreover, if you want to know the future of fashion industry after Covid-19, you can click here!
And if you want to read one of our premium case studies on Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion, you can go here!
Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion: A Case Study
You can also read our interesting and well researched article on: Architecture Fabric: The New Use of Textiles as A Building Material
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 20, 2021 | Academic |
Fast fashion vs slow fashion is like yin and yang in the arena of fashion world. Though the terms are completely opposite, there is a need of sensing their difference and concretely know which means what- fast fashion vs slow fashion-what are the differences, fast fashion and slow fashion brands, which fashion to choose when, etc.
What comes to your mind when someone says fast fashion vs. slow fashion?
On the surface, fast and slow fashion seem pretty straightforward, but in reality, they can both be complex within the realm of sustainable fashion. Today we will cater you a case study on fast fashion vs slow fashion where you will find the differences and a comparative study to ponder on.
[Attention! Read the full article. There is a fun quiz to check your knowledge about fast fashion vs slow fashion]
According to Google Trends, the highest interest in this topic was in April 2009 and the second highest interest is on October 2021.
What is fast fashion?
Fast Fashion is the process of imitating trends and styles from the big-name designers on the runway which is most of the time lower quality, cheap priced and not handmade. Manufacturers mass-produce the garments at lightning speed to beat the competition and keep up with customer expectations. Since the Clothing is produced quickly and cheaply, hence we term it as fast fashion.
Fast fashion examples:
H&M, Zara, etc. retailing brands’ mass produced t-shirts, pants, etc.
Fast fashion vs Slow fashion brands:
Fast fashion and slow fashion brands also have differences according to their design, production, selling and operating criteria which enable us to do Fast fashion vs slow fashion brands comparison.
A list of fast fashion brands:
Interest in the ‘Fast fashion’ topic according to Google Trends. Source: Screenshot taken from Google Trends.
What is Slow Fashion?
Slow fashion is about conscious shopping and wearing clothing with sustainability in mind. It is about designing, creating, and buying clothing that last a long time. Here quality matters over quantity and since the process takes place slowly, we term it as slow fashion.
`
Dhakai Muslin, an example of slow fashion
Slow fashion examples:
Handmade classical products like Jamdani, Dhakai Muslin, Nakshi kantha, etc. Moreover vintage and second hand clothes are also a part of slow fashion.
Slow fashion history:
The term ‘slow fashion’ is not so old. In fact, this term emerged in the year 2007 when journalist Kate Fletcher, a fashion and sustainability pioneer, coined the word “slow fashion” in an article published in the British publication-The Ecologist.
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The photo of Kate Fletcher who coined the term ‘slow fashion’. Her name is now attached with the history of slow fashion.
Actually, the concept of slow fashion is inspired from the Slow Food Movement founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986 which links pleasure and food with awareness and responsibility.
After her coining out this term, it became a world trend and talk of the fashion world.
Is slow fashion more sustainable than fast fashion?
Slow fashion promotes a slower, steady and more sustainable approach as it is hand-made with sustainable raw materials like lotus, banana, orange fiber and promotes the use of vintage or second hand clothes, upcycling old clothing materials. It decreases carbon footprint and takes care of the 3Ps of sustainability- People, planet and profit.
Comparing the benefits of slow fashion and fast fashion
- Slow fashion reduces the consumption of resources and the amount of wasteland people can wear for a long time because they are made up of durable materials but is not cost efficient.
- Fast fashion quickly responds to rapidly-changing fashion trends and consumer tastes.It carries high-end designs to the masses at affordable price ranges.
Fast fashion vs slow fashion Google Trends. The interest and talk of fast fashion was always more than slow fashion from the beginning. Source: Google Trends.
Let’s compare the problems faced
- In Slow fashion small quantities are produced at low speed and hence are not able to compete with the economy of scale strategy. And generally, the products are more expensive than the commodities.
- Due to the greater manufacturing speed, the factories are likely to neglect the working conditions. The low quality and low pricing of the products results in the increase of fashion waste
Comparing the production schedules
Slow fashion has 2-3 cycles per annum whereas fast fashion has approx. 50+ cycles per annum. We can clearly see the production scale of fast fashion is near 25 times of the slow fashion !!!
Comparing the fashion sales
We can see the graph of slow fashion is very low at the beginning, but gradually the graph of slow fashion can be seen increasing, which means slowly people are understanding the importance of slow fashion. Though the graph of fast fashion is increasing rapidly because people always prefer cheaper prices over quality clothing.
Fast fashion vs slow fashion in India (USD Million).
|
Fast Fashion |
Slow Fashion |
| Production |
Rapid and mass production |
Slow and deliberate production |
| Design Approach |
Trend-driven and short-lived designs |
Timeless and enduring designs |
| Manufacturing |
Outsourcing to low-cost labor countries |
Emphasis on local, ethical manufacturing |
| Material Selection |
Synthetic materials and low-cost fabrics |
Natural, organic, and sustainable materials |
| Environmental Impact |
High pollution and waste generation |
Focus on sustainability and eco-friendliness |
| Consumer Behavior |
Impulse buying and frequent purchases |
Conscious consumption and fewer purchases |
| Supply Chain |
Lack of transparency and unethical practices |
Ethical sourcing and transparent supply chain |
| Social Responsibility |
Exploitation of low-wage workers |
Fair wages and labor rights |
| Longevity |
Disposable fashion with short lifespan |
Durable garments designed for longevity |
A table showing the differences between fast fashion and slow fashion.
Conclusion
After looking at the facts & surveys we can say that:
- Fast fashion creates a lot of wastage and hence is quite harmful to the environment hence slow fashion should be promoted more in order to maintain sustainability
- But when looking at the prices fast fashion is more preferable due to it’s cheaper prices.
But in the end, it depends on what the customer wants and what he prefers. It has to be either quality products/cheaper prices.
Nandini Kapu
Student at NIFT- National Institute of Fashion Technology
(NB. This article was written by Nandini Kapu. It has been updated and will be updated by Fashionnovation whenever we find new relevant information to make it rich so that the information best serves you. So, stay with Fashionnovation!)
You can also read another of our premium article on Fashion in the 21st century here!
Fashion in the 21st Century
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![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 18, 2021 | Academic |
Say, you are asking someone- why textiles are important? The most typical answer would be- textiles are important to decorate our homes, prettify our bodies and also for modesty. But the notion of textile in space has not yet surpassed the notion of clothing allowing us to make our own recognition and playing a principal role in cultural rituals and celebrations. The truth is, textiles are now far beyond these primary necessities and are now reigning in space, which gives rise to the concept of Textile in space!
You can also read:
Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)
Over the past few decades, technical textile fibers have achieved an undeniable and unavoidable position for textile in space and as a fundamental segment of end product structure. The development in the field of material science has placed an increased emphasis in finding innovative swaps to excel in performance of the existing composites. Lighter weight, comparable in strength with metals, higher strength to weight ratio, modifiable in size, flexible in handling and many more unique characteristics come up with interesting novel applications to textile materials. Therefore, it is not strange to realize the application of a stream of innovative fibrous composition in the space above and beneath the land.
And to talk about human beings reaching the stars, technical textile fibers are one of the core reasons that made this dream possible. In this regard, textile in aerospace is a significant incident now.
Do You Know the Reality Above the Land?
Before knowing the technical textiles associated with aerospace, it is important to know the definition of space and aerospace. As these terms have a strong kinship with textile engineers!
A limitless surrounding that, according to modern science, a vacuum extent that is not exactly empty. It contains planets, stars, galaxies and many more particles and plasma matters. Normally, known as outer space, it starts above the earth’s atmosphere. There is no gravity in space, no air, no atmosphere. So, there is no way to resist a very high level of radioactive rays – which are blocked by the earth’s magnetic field- hence, all living things survive. Temperatures there are either hot (such as in case of an explosion of a star) or very cold (nearly -455o F, it’s that cold!). Nonetheless, the human body does not yet have the ability to cope with such extreme environments.
There are so many radioactive rays in space that it is still mysterious exactly what harm they can do to the human body. For this reason, people in space have to wear special clothes which are called space suits. Manufacturing of such garment requires special methods and processes, particular environment is created by controlling the temperature and air pressure – so that people can live in it. And in this regard technical textiles have mind blowing contribution.
The Milky Way Galaxy- shining bright- bearing thousands of wonders! Courtesy: Pexels
Aerospace is the branch of technology affiliated with both aviation and space flight. In this era of modern technology, this term is now a common expression. Although, as previously mentioned, the outer space relates to the vacuum environment that goes beyond the earth’s atmospheric levels, aerospace does not only belong to outer space. It also coincides with earth’s atmosphere. The section of technical textiles is rendering great service in this field. By fulfilling all the requirements to ensure the safety of the aerospace connected issues, they become an inseparable part of aerospace. And this amalgamation of textile technology and aeronautical technology has created a new field known as Aerospace Textile!
What Textiles Are Used in Space?
Getting to Know the Features of Textile in Space: Aerospace Textile
Aerospace textiles are obviously something that requires technical or high-performance fibers; these fibers posses certain characteristics that differ from the commodity fibers. These characteristics help enormously for the functions of astronauts, pilots and other professionals. Based on 3D reinforcement, a narrow range of aerospace composites are used for this field. Spontaneously, the curious mind would want to know about the exceptional features to develop aerospace textiles! Here are some key features-
- Good fatigue and stress resistant
- Abrasion and tear resistant
- High specific modulus and strength
- Heat insulation and heat resistant
- Fire retardant
- Good dimensional stability and comfortability
- Resistant to harmful radiation
- Lightweight and flexibility
- Resistant to chemical and organic solvents
- Moisture resistant
- Good electrical insulation
- Adequate washability and durability
The inside of a spacecraft- application of textile materials all around. Courtesy: Unsplash
Materials used to produce the aero-products!
High performance fibers & nano technical fibers with a combination of smart technology are widely used in the production of technical textiles such as: Polyester, Nylon, Dacron, Kevlar, Carbon, Glass, Aramid, Nomex, Spandex, Spectra, Silk etc. There are obviously much more than these. Let’s get to know some of these amazing hairlike materials, shall we?
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Carbon Fiber:
It is the material consisting of very thin fibers. The diameter ranges from about 0.0002” to 0.0004” and contains mostly carbon atoms as it is produced from the pitch, which is produced as the by-product during the cracking procedure of crude oil. It is similar to graphite in construction as it contains hexagonal graphene layers. The carbon percentage in the composition is almost equal to 100%. Carbon fiber is familiar for its high specific strength in the aerospace industry. Some basic properties are-high tensile strength, lightweight, heat resistant and not attacked by chemicals.
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Aramid/Kevlar:
Originally introduced by Du Pont in 1973, the Aramid fibers are well known for their good resistance to abrasion, organic solvents and good fabric integrity even at raised temperatures. These fibers are popular under the trade names such as Kevlar. Some of the special features of this fiber are-heat resistant, high modulus, flexibility, non-flammable and low brittleness. All of these features are important for aerospace and aeronautical products.
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Alumina-Boria-Silica Fiber:
These fibers are ceaseless and are specially designed to pass the FAA’s (Federal Aviation Administration) 2000°F (1093°C) 15-minute flame penetration test. Nextel is a woven ceramic fabric which is one of the most greatly used shielding materials. It is a trade name for Alumina-Boria-Silica fibers, which shock the incoming projectiles and turn them into small, less threatening fragments.
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Silicon Carbide Fiber:
These fibers are similar to carbon fibers. The tensile strength of the fiber is about 400 kg/mm². It is known for its excellent heat resistance, as it withstands even at temperature as high as 1500°C. Some other useful properties are resistance against corrosive chemicals and elasticity.
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Nylon Fiber: Nylon 6:6
fiber is made from hexamethylene di-amine and adipic acid. Some basic features of nylon are- high mechanical strength, high toughness, good fatigue resistance, good electrical insulating properties, no resistance to UV rays, lightweight and much more. Interesting fact, nylon is also used for the manufacturing of gear and machine parts!
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E-Glass: E-Glass or electrical grade glass
was initially evolved for stand-off insulators for electrical wiring. It was later discovered to have excellent fiber forming capabilities and is now used almost exclusively as the reinforcing phase in the material usually known as fiber glass.
-
Graphene: Graphene
is another form of the carbon’s element. Its structure resembles a single layer of graphite. It is an important material for aerospace technology. Some current applications include graphene coating as multi-disciplinary material for spacecraft and aircraft structures, electrically conductive epoxy resins, and aviation electronics.
As we can see, there are several organic and non-organic fibers that are working their magic to ensure the production of aerospace crafts. The covalent bonds among the molecules arranged in an orderly way is one of the greatest compositions these fibers could have. These highly technical fibers are, nonetheless, important for humankind to fulfill their dreams to reach the sky and stars indeed!
You can also read the second chapter of this article here:
Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)
By Team Bespoke:
Mentor: Tasphia Zaman (TFD 44, ID: 2018-1-6-009)
Leader: Khadiza Sharmin (TFD 45, ID: 2019-1-6-015)
Executive: Nahema Haque Khushe (TFD 46, ID: 2020-1-6-002)
References:
Image 1: https://unsplash.com/photos/tKs_2sBoqAg?fbclid=IwAR0pikGCo7keup5h8GMyloZ6nytnRzA5yptQH-h6oMKwAPoBKcsnpLiE_10
Image 2: https://www.pexels.com/photo/gray-and-black-galaxy-wallpaper-2150/
Image 3: https://unsplash.com/photos/m9nlI6r1hC8
As you seem to be both tech savvy and fashionista, you will enjoy our premium article on Textile in space: Flying up to reach the stars! This is the second chapter of the article!
To know the biggest fashion trends of 21st century, you can visit here! Moreover, if you want to know the future of fashion industry after Covid-19, you can click here!
And if you want to read one of our premium case studies on Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion, you can go here!
Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion: A Case Study
You can also read our interesting and well researched article on: Architecture Fabric: The New Use of Textiles as A Building Material
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 17, 2021 | Shout out |
Fashionnovation is on a journey to introduce you with unique, sustainable, rising fashion brands and the masterminds behind them. As a matter of fact, we’ll explore Amber Design House and the mind of its founder. In our today’s exclusive interview, we take the humble opportunity to introduce you with Jana Cuprijanoviča, a Latvian fashion designer, graduated as an organization psychologist, then found her passion for fashion and went all in to serve her customers with her handmade cardigans, creating which is like meditation to her. Today we will listen to her story of building up a brand called Amber Design House to serve her customers around the world with love.
Kazi Purba: We know that Amber Design House is a handmade products company and brand founded by you in Riga, Latvia, near the Baltic sea. Can you tell us something about yourself?
Jana: My name is Jana. I am the creator of Amber Design House. This is my hobby, work, love.
I graduated as an organization psychologist and all the acquired knowledge and work experience is very useful even now, developing my small business.
Jana Cuprijanoviča, the founder of Amber Design House. Photo courtesy: Amber Design House.
Kazi Purba: What’s the story behind Amber Design House? What motivated you to establish that?
Jana: The Amber Design House project started with one cardigan for myself and without really planning anything. I didn’t ever imagine that after a while it would turn into a passionate work. This is my meditation. I can equate knitting to a kind of yoga.
I can thank my daughter Patrisha for encouraging me to develop all these. She said that other people should also see these cardigans and sweaters. I doubted it for a moment, but there was no time to think, because the customers had already appeared and were already waiting for their knitted cardigans. I just had to do it!
One cardigan, two, three… sweaters, home decor, it just happened naturally.
Our cardigans have already traveled to Germany, Denmark, Switzerland, Netherlands and other places in world.
Kazi Purba: That is amazing! Loved the story behind your brand. What’s your product range? What special do you offer to your customers?
Jana: Amber design house produces handmade fashion crocheted and knitted outwear and decors.
Knitted cardigan from Amber Design House. Photo courtesy: Amber Design House.
Our products are distinguished by our hallmark – small natural amber. It is a stone of sun with good and healing energy.
Our most popular product is a knitted cardigan, also highly requested as an additional piece for wedding dresses.
We work only with high quality materials, because the end result is very important for us.
Knitted product with Amber Design House’s logo on it. Photo courtesy: Amber Design House.
Kazi Purba: How much supportive are your customers? What’s your future plan for them?
Jana: All the good words and appreciations from our cool customers just give me a big inspiration. It warms my heart so much and motivates me to do more and more.
I’m thankful to everyone from the bottom of my heart for appreciating, loving and being so supportive!
If you want to know more about Jana Cuprijanoviča’s projects and Amber Design House, please visit:
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amberdesignhouse
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/amberdesignhouse/
Website: www.amberdesignhouse.lv
If you have any initiative like Jana Cuprijanoviča or have to say something to the world, feel free to contact us and get featured in fashionnovation! Our email address: fashionnovationfd@gmail.com
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Lili: A Sustainable Brand for Upcycled Jewelry
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 13, 2021 | Academic |
The history of silk is ancient, fascinating and thrilling. Silk is associated with nursing animal product and referred to as “The queen of fibres”. Rather than being mature within the type of hair, it’s created by insects as a handy material with that to make their webs, cocoon and ascent ropes. Nearly entire industrial silk relies on one insect – the silk worm, a caterpillar. (Binomial name: Bombyx mori)
Silk, the foremost elegant fibre, was initial discovered in China by Emperor Si-Ling-Chi. One day the Emperor was enjoying a cup of tea below a mulberry in the palace garden. Suddenly a silk worm cocoon fell down into her tea cup and she discovered that the warmth of the liquid allowed the cocoon to unravel an unbroken filament of fibre.
According to Chinese legends, silk culture dates back to the year 2640 BC, once the Emperor learned the way to rear the caterpillars and unwind the cocoons that they created. So through the complete encouragement of the Emperor, silk business became established in China. China command monopoly within the silk business for three thousand years. Then sericulture unfold to Japan via Korea and bit by bit silk production unfold westward over Asia.
HOW SILK FIBRE IS MADE :
Silk is that the product of the domesticated silkworm, Bombyx mori. The caterpillars are fed mulberry leaves 5 times daily. After 45 days of munching and growing the worms area unit able to be mature. They have a special spinneret that secrets one long continuous filament. That’s the silk.
Silkworm Chrysalis with Cocoon; Photo from Pinterest.
When the silkworms spin this filament into a cocoon, the caterpillar starts its transformation. By steaming, it cleans them and kills the insect inside. If the pupas were unbroken alive, they’d degrade and break the silk. Then the cocoons area unit warp to reveal around a mile of usable filament. Filaments area unit joined to make a thread thick enough to weave into the material.
TYPES OF SILK FIBRE :
A variety of silk fiber is found considering bound factors associated with its quality and methodology of production. Some well-known varieties square measure made public below-
1. Raw silk:
Silk fiber because it comes from the cocoon is coated with a protecting layer referred to as silk gum, ar sericin. The silk Eum is uninteresting and stiff, Silk with all of its gum is termed raw silk.
2. Tussah Silk:
Tussah Silk Fabric; Photo from Pinterest.
Silk made of wild silkworms is known as Tussah silk. The natural color of this silk is typically not white, but shades of pale beige, brown and gray. It’s sometimes coarser than cultivated silk.
3. Bombyx mori Silk:
it is conjointly referred to as mulberry silk that is made by domesticated silkworm raised on a diet of mulberry leaves nearly solely softer, finer and additional lustrous than Tussah Silk. This silk produces reminder white product.
4. Reeled silk or Thrown silk:
It is a term for silk fiber that’s uncoiled from the silkworm Cocoon. it’s the foremost fine silk, the fibers square measure terribly long, shiny and of nice strength
5. Spun silk:
Silk made of broken cocoon (from that the moths have already emerged) and short fibers, feels more like cotton.
6. Weighted silk:
When yarns square measure ready for weaving, the skeins of yarn square measure stewed in an exceeding soap resolution to get rid of the natural silk gum or sericin. The silk might lose from 20-30% of its original weight as a result of boiling. As silk incorporates a nice affinity for gold salts like those of tin.
7. Pure silk:
Pure Silk Fabric; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
If the natural gum or sericin is faraway from the silk and no more material is other to extend the weight of the fiber, l.e. silk containing no gold weight is termed pure silk. Pure silk is solely soft and possesses fine luster.
WHY SILK IS SO EXPENSIVE :
Silk is one in all the foremost pricy materials within the world rather like linen. It’s typically chosen for a spread of garments and accessories in new collections.
Silk was an expensive material back then in past too.It is extremely pricy as a result of its restricted accessibility and expensive production. It takes quite 5,000 silkworms to provide only one kilogram of silk. The farming, killing, and gather of thousands of silkworm cocoons are resource-heavy, effortful, and expensive processes. Only 168,300 loads of raw silk are made globally every year. China is that the largest producer of silk with 126,000 tons made in 2014, followed by India (23,700 tons), and Vietnam (6,800 tons).
WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT SILK :
Silk Fabric; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
To quote Oscar de la Renta,
“Silk does for the body what diamonds do for the hand.”
Silk is such as fabric that is fond of by all kinds of people of all kinds of ages, specially by women. It gives someone a Royal and charm looking. It’s just a perfect wardrobe for making an evening special! In spite of its delicate look, silk is comparatively strong. Its swish surface resists soil and odors well. Silk is wrinkle and tear resistant, and dries swiftly. Owing to its macromolecule structure, silk is that the most hypoallergenic of all materials.
A WEll-KEPT SECRET :
Small rabbit sitting on comfy Silk fabric; Courtesy: Photo by Sunsetoned from Pexel.
The Chinese realised the worth of the attractive material they were manufacturing and unbroken its secret safe from the remainder of the planet for quite 30 centuries. Travelers were searched thoroughly at border crossings and anyone caught making an attempt to export eggs, cocoons or silkworms out of the country were end up dead. Thus, below the penalty of death, the mystery of sericulture remained a well-kept secret for pretty much three thousand years.
SILK ROAD :
Silk Road of China; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
Though first reserved for Chinese royalty, silk unfolds bit by bit through the Chinese culture. From then, silken clothes began to achieve regions throughout Asia. Silk speedily became a preferred luxury material within the several areas accessible to Chinese merchants, due to its texture and luster. Demand for this exotic material eventually created the profitable trade route currently referred to as the trade route, taking silk westward and delivery gold, silver and wool to the eastward. The Silk Road is so named because it was the trading route from China to Rome, wherever silk material was one amongst the key trade things.
Sometimes silk was considered more precious than gold! So Clearly, Silk Road played a crucial role in its global trade and introduction to the world outside of China.
PRODUCTION AREA :
Among the silk-producing areas, Japan has always ranked highest in production of fine silks. Satisfactory types are made in-Austria, Brazil, Bulgaria, China, France, Greece, Iran, Thailand, Turkey, Spain and Syria.
SOME INDUSTRIAL SILK FABRICS:
Satin Silk; Courtesy: Photo from pinterest
Chiffon, Chinnon, Crepe, Dupion, Duchess, Organza, Taffeta, Georgette, Satin, Matka, Brocade etc.
CLOTHES MADE OF SILK :
A modern hijabi girl with beautiful silk gawn; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
Examples of shopper attire things made of silk embody scarfs, shirts, blouses, sleep mask and evening clothes. Thanks to its light-weight and soft attributes, silk is additionally a favourite material for nightclothes and undergarment for men. Within the home, silk may well be wont to create ornamental pillows, curtains, or wall hangings.
HOW TO RECOGNISE PURE SILK:
Simply bit your silk and acquire an honest sorrow the smoothness of it. Real silk is totally swish to the bit, with a soft and virtually waxy feeling. Further thereto, if you scrunch it up a touch in your hand, you ought to hear a crunching noise – that sound should tell you that it’s the important deal.
For further peace of mind, rub the silk between your fingers for a touch whereas. Real silk heats up and becomes deal the bit – if it doesn’t amendment in temperature, it’s a pretend.
HISTORY OF SILK IN BENGAL :
Bangladesh eventually transmitted the art of sericulture due to its proximity to India and China as It’s a pride similar to Muslin and Jamdani. Italians particularly favoured this sort of silk throughout the 13th Century and referred to as it the ‘Ganges Silk’.
By the 1930s, Chinese and Japanese silk started replacing Bengal silk even in Bengal itself because of the epidemic of silkworm diseases and technological stagnation. In the early 20th century, Bengal silk was removed from South Asian markets, especially by Kashmir and Mysore silk.
A Bengali Woman in Silk Shari; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest.
But then 1971, the govt. developed an additional systematic policy towards silk. In 1977, the Bangladesh sericulture board was created to coordinate activities within the silk sector. Now as a gift situation sericulture in Bangladesh is ruled by Bangladesh Silk Board (BSB), Asian nation Silk Foundation (BSF) and a few NGO’s, chiefly BRAC.
Though Bangladesh features a structure to guide the sericulture comes however it’s not been ready to work as expeditiously because it was required. As a result the mulberry plantation has bated to throughout the last decade. BSB is currently operating about extension and production programs and that they have gotten government support to accomplish their programs. However there’s lack of hardship and potency to implement the programs.
TYPES OF BANGLADESHI SILK:
1. Mulberry Silk.
2. Eri (Endi Silk).
3. Tassar Silk.
BENEFITS OF SILK :
Arrangement of Glass Pitcher on Silk garment; Courtesy: Photo by Sunsetoned from Pexels.
The terrible notion of silk produces an expensive and comfy image in most people’s minds. this can be owing to the fiber’s fantastic properties.
– The natural supermolecule structure makes it a naturally hypoallergenic textile.
– Silk has temperature control properties that makes it ideal for clothes in interchangeable climates. It is a breathable material that’s strong and resists odors. It is straightforward to figure with and might be plain-woven, knit or spun just.
– Silk simply absorbs dyes and may be a fantastic fashion and interiors alternative for its skillfulness and drape.
– Silks is bleached with low-impact and natural dyes.
– It is perishable and might be recycled.
– Handloom silks area unit made exploitation abundant less energy.
Silk has attracted people for millennia with its unique qualities of lightness and strength, durability, luster and brilliance. A silk strand has a greater tensile strength than steel, yet no other material drapes more luxuriously or flatters the body more. So, it makes our responsibility to be more productive in this field.
By Team “LEMON DROPS!”,
Mentor : A.S.M. Shahidullah (TFD 44; ID: 2018-1-6-013)
Leader : Jeba Samia (TFD 45; ID- 2019-1-6-035)
Executive : Rabeya Begum Mishu (TFD 46; ID-2020-1-6-34)
DEPARTMENT : TEXTILE FASHION & DESIGN (TFD)
BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES (BUTEX)
Image References:
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