by Purba | Sep 12, 2021 | Shout out |
As Bangladesh is emerging with a booming Textile Industry, Fashion Design turns out to be a sector for the future. A lot of Fashion Designers are emerging in our country from different Textile & Fashion institutions. As an organization of fashion & Innovation, Fashionnovation is working with the prospect of this sector. Our team talked with Fashion Designer Suravi Jahanara who is currently working as a Chief Designer in a German Company named Colombus textilvertrieb GmbH. In the interview, she talked about her journey, the current scenario of fashion designers and also their earning. (This interview is a part of our ‘Interview fashion designer’ project.)
Fashionnovation: Working as a Chief Designer in a German company, can you share your professional experience as a fashion designer from the beginning?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- After finishing my graduation (Hons.) Fashion Design & Technology, I joined in H&M as production intern. My internship was with the merchandising team. I was assigned in the denim team and my main job focus was order follow up and execution and other relative works.
- subsequently to my internship I joined in a factory called Concorde Garments Ltd as 3D technologist. This factory specialized in woven shirts worked with the buying house PVH and their iconic brands like arrow, Izod etc. I was responsible for developing 3D fit samples. Additionally, I was a support to their design team.
- In 2018 I joined again in H&M as Researcher & Developer in the ladies knit division both Jersey and Sweater. Main focus for this job was to develop material and develop the suppliers according to H&M buying preferences.
- Currently I am a chief designer in German Liaison buying house. Main job focus is to offer customers designs according to their brand images. From initial development to surface decoration and preparing Spec sheet for the final orders.
Fashionnovation: You’re currently working at Colombus Textilvertrieb GmbH, can you briefly describe the structure of ‘DPD- Design and Product Development’ of your company?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- This company’s values pretty simple and straight forward. They prefer quality over quantity. So, product quantity is not as much as other buying houses and they are also very limited people specializing for each brand or customers. The main office is located in Germany where they have another designer responsible for German region. And me; responsible for Bangladesh region. Each of us handles different product category solely.
Fashionnovation: What is the salary scale of Fashion designers in both the Textile Industry & multinational companies?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- Prior to the covid situation salary structure was different. In traditional sense, the structure really varies from company to company and it is also based on the experiences and negotiation.
- First of all; not a lot of companies in both textile industry and in multinational companies hires designers. The pool for designers is really limited. And compared to factory, multinational companies offer additional plans such as tax, medical insurance, provident fund, yearly increments etc. For factories it is the salary only.
so basically, there is no guarantee which is better, really depends on what sort deal you are settling for.
Fashionnovation: There is a conventional idea about Bangladeshi Industry that most of the design of our RMG comes from foreign countries. So, our question is that what is the current working process of DPD in Bangladesh?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- Yes, most the design comes from foreign countries. In BD, the DPD is more focused on production friendly options rather than experimenting. Even though the trend is same for all the fashion followers but for each brand they want to see different options according to brand profile. What that mean is to see different interpretation of the same concepts. But in BD it is a common notion that R&D is waste of resources. In my personal opinion this notion has stopped BD designers to think outside the box. So, they develop products based on whatever leftover of the material they have input/output creating authentic designs. Whereas other countries they do not compromises on their designs.
Fashionnovation: Currently, there is a lot of Fashion House (Such as Aarong, Yellow etc.) emerging in Bangladesh. What are the technical differences between the Industrial design department & designers of these Fashion houses?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- Since I have not personally worked in any of the local brands so my answers will not be very specific. But there is a huge difference. For the fashion houses, market researching is a blank space. As a consumer of these brands, we are not offered much different options specially in terms of materials. They are all very common fabric that we have been using for decades. It is just different cuts and prints. The working procedure is very basic. Buy the material locally available and affordable mostly from Islampur, then make something out of it. The only variation is on the surface decoration, patterns and color palettes.
You can also read Fashionnovation Your Mentor Talks’ First Episode with Ms. Ummey Hani Barsha
Fashionnovation: What is the salary scale of Designers working in the Fashion House?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- Depends on the organization policy and experiences. Brands like Aarong or Yellow offers good salary due to under big organization. But other local brands offer much less compared to textile industries and multinational companies.
Fashionnovation: There is a lot of Designers who work as Freelancer. Can you describe their work field and earnings?
Suravi Jahanara:
-
- A freelancer could earn money in so many possible ways. The rate can be hourly or as a package depending on the volume of the work. If he/she only developing prints or AOP the rate would be different. If the designer is creating a seasonal collection the rate would be different. The designer could be asked to develop brand logo designs or label designs. It’s all in the negotiation. The drawback of freelancing is that the payment is never constant and sometimes the buyers are reluctant towards payment.
Interview Conducted By,
Shariful Islam Akash & Sabiha Moon Taha
Department of Textile Fashion & Design
Bangladesh University of Textiles
As you seem to be both tech savvy and fashionista, you will enjoy our premium article on Textile in space: Flying up to reach the stars! This is the second chapter of the article!
To know the biggest fashion trends of 21st century, you can visit here! Moreover, if you want to know the future of fashion industry after Covid-19, you can click here!
And if you want to read one of our premium case studies on Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion, you can go here!
Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion: A Case Study
You can also read our interesting and well researched article on: Architecture Fabric: The New Use of Textiles as A Building Material
National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Hyderabad, A Heaven for The Fashion Learners
by Purba | Aug 13, 2021 | Top fashion news |
Bernard Arnault, the 72 years old French fashion tycoon, beat Jeff Bezos and globally turn into the richest person in the world.
The world officially get a new richest person: the chairperson and chief executive of the world’s dominating fashion brand LVMH(Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy). For a number of years, American billionaries specially in the technology sector have dominated the ranking of world’s richest people. But in this year 2021, Arnault’s rise into high peak surpassing Amazon’s founder Jeff Bezos and Tesla owner Elon Musk, is remarkable for everyone.
| Rank |
Name |
Country |
Net worth(August 10,2021) |
| 1 |
Bernard Aurnault |
France |
$199.2 billion |
| 2 |
Jeff Bezos |
United states |
$192.7billion |
| 3 |
Elon Musk |
United states |
$183.7 billion |
Source:Forbes’ Real-Time Billionaire Tracker (Data as of 10th August,2021)
Arnault is not the new name in the ranking of world’s wealthiest people,but he has been a billionaire for well over a decade and has been on of the top five richest people since 2018.
Bernard Aurnault command an empire of 70 iconic luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Givenchy, Dom Perignon, Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Sephora, Loro Piana, Nicholas Kirkwood, Thomas Pink, RM Williams, EDUN, Moynat, and Donna Karen. He owns a 96.5 percent stake in Christian Dior, which controls 41 percent of LVMH. He also expanses retail and hospitality industries.
You can also read our trending and well researched article on Fast fashion vs slow fashion!
Arnault, the French tycoon enter into fashion area by purchasing Christian Dior in 1985. He has been the leader of LVMH since 1989, after becoming the major shareholder of the company.
The surprising part is, when maximum of the company and businessman have been suffering with their earning potential during COVID-19 pandemic, LVMH is flourishing as the company has been kept up by strong sales in Asia-especially China.
In January 2021, LVMH has done a deal for Tiffany & Co for nearly $16 billion,that is perhaps the largest luxury brand achievement in history.
References:image from www.celebritynetworth.com
www.visualcapitalist.com
www.hindustantimes.comK
Khadiza Sharmin (TFD 45, ID: 2019-1-6-015)
You can also read one of our trending article on Gucci!
GUCCI: A Luxurious Fashion Brand
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | Jun 29, 2021 | Academic |
Textile in space is a dream that human beings have seen beyond the use of textiles in mere clothings as a covering.
As we continue our journey to reach the stars following with the previous chapter of Textile in Space, we will surely come to know some of the amazing applications of textile in both space and aerospace. We have already come to know some of the key features for space textiles (such as fiber, yarn, fabric) which are essential to be converted into intricate and highly modern aero-crafts.
Nonetheless, a good strength to weight ratio, high abrasion resistance, extremely light-weight, flexibility, durability, comfortability, mechanical and chemical resistance are some of the compulsory features of textiles in this regard. And keeping this in mind, the developed technical textiles are serving in this textile space field with no sweat!
Textile in space: In Aircraft Manufacturing- When Dream Becomes Reality to Reach the Space!
Textiles have been used by human beings since the pre-historic time. Only the recent researches for the past few decades have led to the concept of developing technical textiles in space. One of the major fields of applications of textile is in the process of aircraft manufacturing and related products. Surely, getting to know some of the applications will give us a glimpse on how our dream to reach the stars in becoming a reality!
The broken parts of rotor blade can operate as projectile and form external effect. So, woven structure and material such as Kevlar, Nylon, glass fiber metal resign, aromatic polyamide and carbon/epoxy composite structures are used to decrease the impact damage. These textile materials co-operate with flight surface and help the rotor inner side for covering against ballistic damage.
-
Aircraft Interior Design, another example of textile in space:
Inside the aircraft and spacecraft- from furnishing textiles to wall covering, floor carpet, seat & seat belts, curtains and other interior designs are formed from textile composites. In the automotive sector as well as aircraft, spacecraft and onboard ships, drive belts are now used in the engine. In the past, they were primarily made of rubber or flexible plastic. Now coated with textiles or textile mixtures have established durability, comfortability, safety in many applications. They must determine qualities that affect in everyday use to clean easily, to be fire –resistant and free of pollutants that could vaporize and pollute the air. Modern textile materials like microfibers, nanotechnology and new plastics have remodel the use of textiles in interiors.
The Interior of a spacecraft for which technical textile materials are one of the the primary elements to manufacture. Courtesy: Unspash.
Parachutes are necessary for the protection for the pilots, aviators and passengers of the aircraft. Raw materials used in the parachutes are high performance fibers such as Nylon, Polyester, Kevlar, Nomex and so on. More specifically, parachutes are made up of high tenacity fire resistant material called ‘Rip-stop Nylon 6.6 fabric’ with tough and durable coatings for heat and air retention. Some other important characteristics for these materials to obtain are UV protection, heat and abrasion resistant, water proofness, high specific strength and light weight.
Parachute systems for space and military, an example of textile in space. Courtesy: Aerospace America.
A space suit, mostly worn by astronauts, is a pressurized garment which is useful during space flights. This suit performs as the ultimate protective clothing that protects the astronauts from damaging conditions in the space where a single sand can be dangerous for its extreme speed. It is also known as Extra Vehicular Mobility unit (EMU).
From feet to head, spacesuit consists of many parts which performs various tasks like containing tubes that supply oxygen, protecting from high pressure and dust in space, containing electric conductors etc. Under the suit, astronauts wear another piece of clothing named liquid cooling and ventilation garment that interlinks with the tubes. Water flows through the tubes to keep astronaut cool. Since, containing oxygen is a must in order to survive in space, a good oxygen chamber is required. Hence, on the back of the space suit, there is a backpack made from technical textiles that holds oxygen and removes carbon dioxide to make easy breathing system for astronauts. It also supplies electricity for the suit. According to the required functional purpose, materials like Dacron, Neoprene, Kevlar, Spandex etc. are used to make spacesuit.
Man Wearing Space Suit, taking textile in space. Courtesy: Pixabay.
G-Suit is a special flight suit worn by aviators, astronauts or fighter pilot in aircraft who are commanded to go against high levels of acceleration force or gravitational force(g). Also, owing to the name as Anti-Gravity Suit, this item is designed to avoid a black-out and g-Loc (g-induced loss of consciousness) generated by the blood pooling in the lower part of the body when under acceleration. This suit is, therefore, necessary as black-out and g-Loc have caused a number of disastrous aircraft accidents previously.
A dummy wearing an Anti-g Suit trousers and cummerbund fitted over a flying suit. Source: Wikipedia.
G-suits consists of artificial inflatable bladders, having air or liquid that can be pressurized using a g-sensitive valve. This also has controlled firm to legs and abdomen under high values of g.
Future Development of Textile in Space Products-What is Coming Next?
Every kilogram that needs to be launched in a spacecraft is so important that it increases both fuel utilization and costs! Lightweight, high strength, cost efficiency, ease of working with the materials and safety are all parameters that should be achieved in developing textiles. Innovations like incorporating bionics into the development of new textiles can open entirely new solutions for engineers and scientists.
A spacecraft during its launch and ready to reach the stars! Photo Taken at the Kennedy Space Center, USA. Courtesy: Unsplash.
In 2015, NASA revealed to try to get humans living on Mars by 2030. If these plans are to be performed successfully, then it’s a consideration that textile materials can be made not only from a clothing and safety perspective, but also can be used structurally to understand the optimal living conditions. Nonetheless, the designers have to work days and nights to figure out the best possible anatomy of a spacesuit! As the weather in Mars is extremely unfavorable, no specimens have yet returned to Earth from Mars which is still the biggest challenge in making space suits. For this regard, NASA is preparing the Futuristic Z-2 space suit of Z-2 prototype for the next generation!
As we come to an end to our space journey, we certainly realize textile is not just used only for daily uses or enhancing beauty but also for protecting from hazardous environments in air, outer-space, Mars or any other outer planet. This field of application is nothing but innovative and cool! Thus, textile especially, technical textiles enabled us to conquer any innovative plan about space and decrease mortal accidents caused by dangerous space area and also allow us to definitely fulfill our dream to reach the stars!
By Team Bespoke:
Mentor: Tasphia Zaman (TFD 44, ID: 2018-1-6-009)
Leader: Khadiza Sharmin (TFD 45, ID: 2019-1-6-015)
Executive: Nahema Haque Khushe (TFD 46, ID: 2020-1-6-002)
References:
Image 1: https://unsplash.com/photos/n463SoeSiVY
Image 2: https://unsplash.com/@nasa
Image 3: https://unsplash.com/photos/NCvvr837fz8
As you seem to be both tech savvy and fashionista, you will enjoy our premium article on Textile in space: Flying up to reach the stars!
To know the biggest fashion trends of 21st century, you can visit here! Moreover, if you want to know the future of fashion industry after Covid-19, you can click here!
And if you want to read one of our premium case studies on Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion, you can go here!
Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion: A Case Study
You can also read our interesting and well researched article on: Architecture Fabric: The New Use of Textiles as A Building Material
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 20, 2021 | Academic |
Fast fashion vs slow fashion is like yin and yang in the arena of fashion world. Though the terms are completely opposite, there is a need of sensing their difference and concretely know which means what- fast fashion vs slow fashion-what are the differences, fast fashion and slow fashion brands, which fashion to choose when, etc.
What comes to your mind when someone says fast fashion vs. slow fashion?
On the surface, fast and slow fashion seem pretty straightforward, but in reality, they can both be complex within the realm of sustainable fashion. Today we will cater you a case study on fast fashion vs slow fashion where you will find the differences and a comparative study to ponder on.
[Attention! Read the full article. There is a fun quiz to check your knowledge about fast fashion vs slow fashion]
According to Google Trends, the highest interest in this topic was in April 2009 and the second highest interest is on October 2021.
What is fast fashion?
Fast Fashion is the process of imitating trends and styles from the big-name designers on the runway which is most of the time lower quality, cheap priced and not handmade. Manufacturers mass-produce the garments at lightning speed to beat the competition and keep up with customer expectations. Since the Clothing is produced quickly and cheaply, hence we term it as fast fashion.
Fast fashion examples:
H&M, Zara, etc. retailing brands’ mass produced t-shirts, pants, etc.
Fast fashion vs Slow fashion brands:
Fast fashion and slow fashion brands also have differences according to their design, production, selling and operating criteria which enable us to do Fast fashion vs slow fashion brands comparison.
A list of fast fashion brands:
Interest in the ‘Fast fashion’ topic according to Google Trends. Source: Screenshot taken from Google Trends.
What is Slow Fashion?
Slow fashion is about conscious shopping and wearing clothing with sustainability in mind. It is about designing, creating, and buying clothing that last a long time. Here quality matters over quantity and since the process takes place slowly, we term it as slow fashion.
`
Dhakai Muslin, an example of slow fashion
Slow fashion examples:
Handmade classical products like Jamdani, Dhakai Muslin, Nakshi kantha, etc. Moreover vintage and second hand clothes are also a part of slow fashion.
Slow fashion history:
The term ‘slow fashion’ is not so old. In fact, this term emerged in the year 2007 when journalist Kate Fletcher, a fashion and sustainability pioneer, coined the word “slow fashion” in an article published in the British publication-The Ecologist.
`
The photo of Kate Fletcher who coined the term ‘slow fashion’. Her name is now attached with the history of slow fashion.
Actually, the concept of slow fashion is inspired from the Slow Food Movement founded by Carlo Petrini in Italy in 1986 which links pleasure and food with awareness and responsibility.
After her coining out this term, it became a world trend and talk of the fashion world.
Is slow fashion more sustainable than fast fashion?
Slow fashion promotes a slower, steady and more sustainable approach as it is hand-made with sustainable raw materials like lotus, banana, orange fiber and promotes the use of vintage or second hand clothes, upcycling old clothing materials. It decreases carbon footprint and takes care of the 3Ps of sustainability- People, planet and profit.
Comparing the benefits of slow fashion and fast fashion
- Slow fashion reduces the consumption of resources and the amount of wasteland people can wear for a long time because they are made up of durable materials but is not cost efficient.
- Fast fashion quickly responds to rapidly-changing fashion trends and consumer tastes.It carries high-end designs to the masses at affordable price ranges.
Fast fashion vs slow fashion Google Trends. The interest and talk of fast fashion was always more than slow fashion from the beginning. Source: Google Trends.
Let’s compare the problems faced
- In Slow fashion small quantities are produced at low speed and hence are not able to compete with the economy of scale strategy. And generally, the products are more expensive than the commodities.
- Due to the greater manufacturing speed, the factories are likely to neglect the working conditions. The low quality and low pricing of the products results in the increase of fashion waste
Comparing the production schedules
Slow fashion has 2-3 cycles per annum whereas fast fashion has approx. 50+ cycles per annum. We can clearly see the production scale of fast fashion is near 25 times of the slow fashion !!!
Comparing the fashion sales
We can see the graph of slow fashion is very low at the beginning, but gradually the graph of slow fashion can be seen increasing, which means slowly people are understanding the importance of slow fashion. Though the graph of fast fashion is increasing rapidly because people always prefer cheaper prices over quality clothing.
Fast fashion vs slow fashion in India (USD Million).
|
Fast Fashion |
Slow Fashion |
| Production |
Rapid and mass production |
Slow and deliberate production |
| Design Approach |
Trend-driven and short-lived designs |
Timeless and enduring designs |
| Manufacturing |
Outsourcing to low-cost labor countries |
Emphasis on local, ethical manufacturing |
| Material Selection |
Synthetic materials and low-cost fabrics |
Natural, organic, and sustainable materials |
| Environmental Impact |
High pollution and waste generation |
Focus on sustainability and eco-friendliness |
| Consumer Behavior |
Impulse buying and frequent purchases |
Conscious consumption and fewer purchases |
| Supply Chain |
Lack of transparency and unethical practices |
Ethical sourcing and transparent supply chain |
| Social Responsibility |
Exploitation of low-wage workers |
Fair wages and labor rights |
| Longevity |
Disposable fashion with short lifespan |
Durable garments designed for longevity |
A table showing the differences between fast fashion and slow fashion.
Conclusion
After looking at the facts & surveys we can say that:
- Fast fashion creates a lot of wastage and hence is quite harmful to the environment hence slow fashion should be promoted more in order to maintain sustainability
- But when looking at the prices fast fashion is more preferable due to it’s cheaper prices.
But in the end, it depends on what the customer wants and what he prefers. It has to be either quality products/cheaper prices.
Nandini Kapu
Student at NIFT- National Institute of Fashion Technology
(NB. This article was written by Nandini Kapu. It has been updated and will be updated by Fashionnovation whenever we find new relevant information to make it rich so that the information best serves you. So, stay with Fashionnovation!)
You can also read another of our premium article on Fashion in the 21st century here!
Fashion in the 21st Century
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If you want to know the most influential US fashion Brands and Germany Fashion Brands, you can click accordingly!
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![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 18, 2021 | Academic |
Say, you are asking someone- why textiles are important? The most typical answer would be- textiles are important to decorate our homes, prettify our bodies and also for modesty. But the notion of textile in space has not yet surpassed the notion of clothing allowing us to make our own recognition and playing a principal role in cultural rituals and celebrations. The truth is, textiles are now far beyond these primary necessities and are now reigning in space, which gives rise to the concept of Textile in space!
You can also read:
Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)
Over the past few decades, technical textile fibers have achieved an undeniable and unavoidable position for textile in space and as a fundamental segment of end product structure. The development in the field of material science has placed an increased emphasis in finding innovative swaps to excel in performance of the existing composites. Lighter weight, comparable in strength with metals, higher strength to weight ratio, modifiable in size, flexible in handling and many more unique characteristics come up with interesting novel applications to textile materials. Therefore, it is not strange to realize the application of a stream of innovative fibrous composition in the space above and beneath the land.
And to talk about human beings reaching the stars, technical textile fibers are one of the core reasons that made this dream possible. In this regard, textile in aerospace is a significant incident now.
Do You Know the Reality Above the Land?
Before knowing the technical textiles associated with aerospace, it is important to know the definition of space and aerospace. As these terms have a strong kinship with textile engineers!
A limitless surrounding that, according to modern science, a vacuum extent that is not exactly empty. It contains planets, stars, galaxies and many more particles and plasma matters. Normally, known as outer space, it starts above the earth’s atmosphere. There is no gravity in space, no air, no atmosphere. So, there is no way to resist a very high level of radioactive rays – which are blocked by the earth’s magnetic field- hence, all living things survive. Temperatures there are either hot (such as in case of an explosion of a star) or very cold (nearly -455o F, it’s that cold!). Nonetheless, the human body does not yet have the ability to cope with such extreme environments.
There are so many radioactive rays in space that it is still mysterious exactly what harm they can do to the human body. For this reason, people in space have to wear special clothes which are called space suits. Manufacturing of such garment requires special methods and processes, particular environment is created by controlling the temperature and air pressure – so that people can live in it. And in this regard technical textiles have mind blowing contribution.
The Milky Way Galaxy- shining bright- bearing thousands of wonders! Courtesy: Pexels
Aerospace is the branch of technology affiliated with both aviation and space flight. In this era of modern technology, this term is now a common expression. Although, as previously mentioned, the outer space relates to the vacuum environment that goes beyond the earth’s atmospheric levels, aerospace does not only belong to outer space. It also coincides with earth’s atmosphere. The section of technical textiles is rendering great service in this field. By fulfilling all the requirements to ensure the safety of the aerospace connected issues, they become an inseparable part of aerospace. And this amalgamation of textile technology and aeronautical technology has created a new field known as Aerospace Textile!
What Textiles Are Used in Space?
Getting to Know the Features of Textile in Space: Aerospace Textile
Aerospace textiles are obviously something that requires technical or high-performance fibers; these fibers posses certain characteristics that differ from the commodity fibers. These characteristics help enormously for the functions of astronauts, pilots and other professionals. Based on 3D reinforcement, a narrow range of aerospace composites are used for this field. Spontaneously, the curious mind would want to know about the exceptional features to develop aerospace textiles! Here are some key features-
- Good fatigue and stress resistant
- Abrasion and tear resistant
- High specific modulus and strength
- Heat insulation and heat resistant
- Fire retardant
- Good dimensional stability and comfortability
- Resistant to harmful radiation
- Lightweight and flexibility
- Resistant to chemical and organic solvents
- Moisture resistant
- Good electrical insulation
- Adequate washability and durability
The inside of a spacecraft- application of textile materials all around. Courtesy: Unsplash
Materials used to produce the aero-products!
High performance fibers & nano technical fibers with a combination of smart technology are widely used in the production of technical textiles such as: Polyester, Nylon, Dacron, Kevlar, Carbon, Glass, Aramid, Nomex, Spandex, Spectra, Silk etc. There are obviously much more than these. Let’s get to know some of these amazing hairlike materials, shall we?
-
Carbon Fiber:
It is the material consisting of very thin fibers. The diameter ranges from about 0.0002” to 0.0004” and contains mostly carbon atoms as it is produced from the pitch, which is produced as the by-product during the cracking procedure of crude oil. It is similar to graphite in construction as it contains hexagonal graphene layers. The carbon percentage in the composition is almost equal to 100%. Carbon fiber is familiar for its high specific strength in the aerospace industry. Some basic properties are-high tensile strength, lightweight, heat resistant and not attacked by chemicals.
-
Aramid/Kevlar:
Originally introduced by Du Pont in 1973, the Aramid fibers are well known for their good resistance to abrasion, organic solvents and good fabric integrity even at raised temperatures. These fibers are popular under the trade names such as Kevlar. Some of the special features of this fiber are-heat resistant, high modulus, flexibility, non-flammable and low brittleness. All of these features are important for aerospace and aeronautical products.
-
Alumina-Boria-Silica Fiber:
These fibers are ceaseless and are specially designed to pass the FAA’s (Federal Aviation Administration) 2000°F (1093°C) 15-minute flame penetration test. Nextel is a woven ceramic fabric which is one of the most greatly used shielding materials. It is a trade name for Alumina-Boria-Silica fibers, which shock the incoming projectiles and turn them into small, less threatening fragments.
-
Silicon Carbide Fiber:
These fibers are similar to carbon fibers. The tensile strength of the fiber is about 400 kg/mm². It is known for its excellent heat resistance, as it withstands even at temperature as high as 1500°C. Some other useful properties are resistance against corrosive chemicals and elasticity.
-
Nylon Fiber: Nylon 6:6
fiber is made from hexamethylene di-amine and adipic acid. Some basic features of nylon are- high mechanical strength, high toughness, good fatigue resistance, good electrical insulating properties, no resistance to UV rays, lightweight and much more. Interesting fact, nylon is also used for the manufacturing of gear and machine parts!
-
E-Glass: E-Glass or electrical grade glass
was initially evolved for stand-off insulators for electrical wiring. It was later discovered to have excellent fiber forming capabilities and is now used almost exclusively as the reinforcing phase in the material usually known as fiber glass.
-
Graphene: Graphene
is another form of the carbon’s element. Its structure resembles a single layer of graphite. It is an important material for aerospace technology. Some current applications include graphene coating as multi-disciplinary material for spacecraft and aircraft structures, electrically conductive epoxy resins, and aviation electronics.
As we can see, there are several organic and non-organic fibers that are working their magic to ensure the production of aerospace crafts. The covalent bonds among the molecules arranged in an orderly way is one of the greatest compositions these fibers could have. These highly technical fibers are, nonetheless, important for humankind to fulfill their dreams to reach the sky and stars indeed!
You can also read the second chapter of this article here:
Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)
By Team Bespoke:
Mentor: Tasphia Zaman (TFD 44, ID: 2018-1-6-009)
Leader: Khadiza Sharmin (TFD 45, ID: 2019-1-6-015)
Executive: Nahema Haque Khushe (TFD 46, ID: 2020-1-6-002)
References:
Image 1: https://unsplash.com/photos/tKs_2sBoqAg?fbclid=IwAR0pikGCo7keup5h8GMyloZ6nytnRzA5yptQH-h6oMKwAPoBKcsnpLiE_10
Image 2: https://www.pexels.com/photo/gray-and-black-galaxy-wallpaper-2150/
Image 3: https://unsplash.com/photos/m9nlI6r1hC8
As you seem to be both tech savvy and fashionista, you will enjoy our premium article on Textile in space: Flying up to reach the stars! This is the second chapter of the article!
To know the biggest fashion trends of 21st century, you can visit here! Moreover, if you want to know the future of fashion industry after Covid-19, you can click here!
And if you want to read one of our premium case studies on Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion, you can go here!
Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion: A Case Study
You can also read our interesting and well researched article on: Architecture Fabric: The New Use of Textiles as A Building Material
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 17, 2021 | Shout out |
Fashionnovation is on a journey to introduce you with unique, sustainable, rising fashion brands and the masterminds behind them. As a matter of fact, we’ll explore Amber Design House and the mind of its founder. In our today’s exclusive interview, we take the humble opportunity to introduce you with Jana Cuprijanoviča, a Latvian fashion designer, graduated as an organization psychologist, then found her passion for fashion and went all in to serve her customers with her handmade cardigans, creating which is like meditation to her. Today we will listen to her story of building up a brand called Amber Design House to serve her customers around the world with love.
Kazi Purba: We know that Amber Design House is a handmade products company and brand founded by you in Riga, Latvia, near the Baltic sea. Can you tell us something about yourself?
Jana: My name is Jana. I am the creator of Amber Design House. This is my hobby, work, love.
I graduated as an organization psychologist and all the acquired knowledge and work experience is very useful even now, developing my small business.
Jana Cuprijanoviča, the founder of Amber Design House. Photo courtesy: Amber Design House.
Kazi Purba: What’s the story behind Amber Design House? What motivated you to establish that?
Jana: The Amber Design House project started with one cardigan for myself and without really planning anything. I didn’t ever imagine that after a while it would turn into a passionate work. This is my meditation. I can equate knitting to a kind of yoga.
I can thank my daughter Patrisha for encouraging me to develop all these. She said that other people should also see these cardigans and sweaters. I doubted it for a moment, but there was no time to think, because the customers had already appeared and were already waiting for their knitted cardigans. I just had to do it!
One cardigan, two, three… sweaters, home decor, it just happened naturally.
Our cardigans have already traveled to Germany, Denmark, Switzerland, Netherlands and other places in world.
Kazi Purba: That is amazing! Loved the story behind your brand. What’s your product range? What special do you offer to your customers?
Jana: Amber design house produces handmade fashion crocheted and knitted outwear and decors.
Knitted cardigan from Amber Design House. Photo courtesy: Amber Design House.
Our products are distinguished by our hallmark – small natural amber. It is a stone of sun with good and healing energy.
Our most popular product is a knitted cardigan, also highly requested as an additional piece for wedding dresses.
We work only with high quality materials, because the end result is very important for us.
Knitted product with Amber Design House’s logo on it. Photo courtesy: Amber Design House.
Kazi Purba: How much supportive are your customers? What’s your future plan for them?
Jana: All the good words and appreciations from our cool customers just give me a big inspiration. It warms my heart so much and motivates me to do more and more.
I’m thankful to everyone from the bottom of my heart for appreciating, loving and being so supportive!
If you want to know more about Jana Cuprijanoviča’s projects and Amber Design House, please visit:
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amberdesignhouse
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/amberdesignhouse/
Website: www.amberdesignhouse.lv
If you have any initiative like Jana Cuprijanoviča or have to say something to the world, feel free to contact us and get featured in fashionnovation! Our email address: fashionnovationfd@gmail.com
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by Purba | May 13, 2021 | Academic |
The history of silk is ancient, fascinating and thrilling. Silk is associated with nursing animal product and referred to as “The queen of fibres”. Rather than being mature within the type of hair, it’s created by insects as a handy material with that to make their webs, cocoon and ascent ropes. Nearly entire industrial silk relies on one insect – the silk worm, a caterpillar. (Binomial name: Bombyx mori)
Silk, the foremost elegant fibre, was initial discovered in China by Emperor Si-Ling-Chi. One day the Emperor was enjoying a cup of tea below a mulberry in the palace garden. Suddenly a silk worm cocoon fell down into her tea cup and she discovered that the warmth of the liquid allowed the cocoon to unravel an unbroken filament of fibre.
According to Chinese legends, silk culture dates back to the year 2640 BC, once the Emperor learned the way to rear the caterpillars and unwind the cocoons that they created. So through the complete encouragement of the Emperor, silk business became established in China. China command monopoly within the silk business for three thousand years. Then sericulture unfold to Japan via Korea and bit by bit silk production unfold westward over Asia.
HOW SILK FIBRE IS MADE :
Silk is that the product of the domesticated silkworm, Bombyx mori. The caterpillars are fed mulberry leaves 5 times daily. After 45 days of munching and growing the worms area unit able to be mature. They have a special spinneret that secrets one long continuous filament. That’s the silk.
Silkworm Chrysalis with Cocoon; Photo from Pinterest.
When the silkworms spin this filament into a cocoon, the caterpillar starts its transformation. By steaming, it cleans them and kills the insect inside. If the pupas were unbroken alive, they’d degrade and break the silk. Then the cocoons area unit warp to reveal around a mile of usable filament. Filaments area unit joined to make a thread thick enough to weave into the material.
TYPES OF SILK FIBRE :
A variety of silk fiber is found considering bound factors associated with its quality and methodology of production. Some well-known varieties square measure made public below-
1. Raw silk:
Silk fiber because it comes from the cocoon is coated with a protecting layer referred to as silk gum, ar sericin. The silk Eum is uninteresting and stiff, Silk with all of its gum is termed raw silk.
2. Tussah Silk:
Tussah Silk Fabric; Photo from Pinterest.
Silk made of wild silkworms is known as Tussah silk. The natural color of this silk is typically not white, but shades of pale beige, brown and gray. It’s sometimes coarser than cultivated silk.
3. Bombyx mori Silk:
it is conjointly referred to as mulberry silk that is made by domesticated silkworm raised on a diet of mulberry leaves nearly solely softer, finer and additional lustrous than Tussah Silk. This silk produces reminder white product.
4. Reeled silk or Thrown silk:
It is a term for silk fiber that’s uncoiled from the silkworm Cocoon. it’s the foremost fine silk, the fibers square measure terribly long, shiny and of nice strength
5. Spun silk:
Silk made of broken cocoon (from that the moths have already emerged) and short fibers, feels more like cotton.
6. Weighted silk:
When yarns square measure ready for weaving, the skeins of yarn square measure stewed in an exceeding soap resolution to get rid of the natural silk gum or sericin. The silk might lose from 20-30% of its original weight as a result of boiling. As silk incorporates a nice affinity for gold salts like those of tin.
7. Pure silk:
Pure Silk Fabric; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
If the natural gum or sericin is faraway from the silk and no more material is other to extend the weight of the fiber, l.e. silk containing no gold weight is termed pure silk. Pure silk is solely soft and possesses fine luster.
WHY SILK IS SO EXPENSIVE :
Silk is one in all the foremost pricy materials within the world rather like linen. It’s typically chosen for a spread of garments and accessories in new collections.
Silk was an expensive material back then in past too.It is extremely pricy as a result of its restricted accessibility and expensive production. It takes quite 5,000 silkworms to provide only one kilogram of silk. The farming, killing, and gather of thousands of silkworm cocoons are resource-heavy, effortful, and expensive processes. Only 168,300 loads of raw silk are made globally every year. China is that the largest producer of silk with 126,000 tons made in 2014, followed by India (23,700 tons), and Vietnam (6,800 tons).
WHAT’S SO SPECIAL ABOUT SILK :
Silk Fabric; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
To quote Oscar de la Renta,
“Silk does for the body what diamonds do for the hand.”
Silk is such as fabric that is fond of by all kinds of people of all kinds of ages, specially by women. It gives someone a Royal and charm looking. It’s just a perfect wardrobe for making an evening special! In spite of its delicate look, silk is comparatively strong. Its swish surface resists soil and odors well. Silk is wrinkle and tear resistant, and dries swiftly. Owing to its macromolecule structure, silk is that the most hypoallergenic of all materials.
A WEll-KEPT SECRET :
Small rabbit sitting on comfy Silk fabric; Courtesy: Photo by Sunsetoned from Pexel.
The Chinese realised the worth of the attractive material they were manufacturing and unbroken its secret safe from the remainder of the planet for quite 30 centuries. Travelers were searched thoroughly at border crossings and anyone caught making an attempt to export eggs, cocoons or silkworms out of the country were end up dead. Thus, below the penalty of death, the mystery of sericulture remained a well-kept secret for pretty much three thousand years.
SILK ROAD :
Silk Road of China; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
Though first reserved for Chinese royalty, silk unfolds bit by bit through the Chinese culture. From then, silken clothes began to achieve regions throughout Asia. Silk speedily became a preferred luxury material within the several areas accessible to Chinese merchants, due to its texture and luster. Demand for this exotic material eventually created the profitable trade route currently referred to as the trade route, taking silk westward and delivery gold, silver and wool to the eastward. The Silk Road is so named because it was the trading route from China to Rome, wherever silk material was one amongst the key trade things.
Sometimes silk was considered more precious than gold! So Clearly, Silk Road played a crucial role in its global trade and introduction to the world outside of China.
PRODUCTION AREA :
Among the silk-producing areas, Japan has always ranked highest in production of fine silks. Satisfactory types are made in-Austria, Brazil, Bulgaria, China, France, Greece, Iran, Thailand, Turkey, Spain and Syria.
SOME INDUSTRIAL SILK FABRICS:
Satin Silk; Courtesy: Photo from pinterest
Chiffon, Chinnon, Crepe, Dupion, Duchess, Organza, Taffeta, Georgette, Satin, Matka, Brocade etc.
CLOTHES MADE OF SILK :
A modern hijabi girl with beautiful silk gawn; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest
Examples of shopper attire things made of silk embody scarfs, shirts, blouses, sleep mask and evening clothes. Thanks to its light-weight and soft attributes, silk is additionally a favourite material for nightclothes and undergarment for men. Within the home, silk may well be wont to create ornamental pillows, curtains, or wall hangings.
HOW TO RECOGNISE PURE SILK:
Simply bit your silk and acquire an honest sorrow the smoothness of it. Real silk is totally swish to the bit, with a soft and virtually waxy feeling. Further thereto, if you scrunch it up a touch in your hand, you ought to hear a crunching noise – that sound should tell you that it’s the important deal.
For further peace of mind, rub the silk between your fingers for a touch whereas. Real silk heats up and becomes deal the bit – if it doesn’t amendment in temperature, it’s a pretend.
HISTORY OF SILK IN BENGAL :
Bangladesh eventually transmitted the art of sericulture due to its proximity to India and China as It’s a pride similar to Muslin and Jamdani. Italians particularly favoured this sort of silk throughout the 13th Century and referred to as it the ‘Ganges Silk’.
By the 1930s, Chinese and Japanese silk started replacing Bengal silk even in Bengal itself because of the epidemic of silkworm diseases and technological stagnation. In the early 20th century, Bengal silk was removed from South Asian markets, especially by Kashmir and Mysore silk.
A Bengali Woman in Silk Shari; Courtesy: Photo from Pinterest.
But then 1971, the govt. developed an additional systematic policy towards silk. In 1977, the Bangladesh sericulture board was created to coordinate activities within the silk sector. Now as a gift situation sericulture in Bangladesh is ruled by Bangladesh Silk Board (BSB), Asian nation Silk Foundation (BSF) and a few NGO’s, chiefly BRAC.
Though Bangladesh features a structure to guide the sericulture comes however it’s not been ready to work as expeditiously because it was required. As a result the mulberry plantation has bated to throughout the last decade. BSB is currently operating about extension and production programs and that they have gotten government support to accomplish their programs. However there’s lack of hardship and potency to implement the programs.
TYPES OF BANGLADESHI SILK:
1. Mulberry Silk.
2. Eri (Endi Silk).
3. Tassar Silk.
BENEFITS OF SILK :
Arrangement of Glass Pitcher on Silk garment; Courtesy: Photo by Sunsetoned from Pexels.
The terrible notion of silk produces an expensive and comfy image in most people’s minds. this can be owing to the fiber’s fantastic properties.
– The natural supermolecule structure makes it a naturally hypoallergenic textile.
– Silk has temperature control properties that makes it ideal for clothes in interchangeable climates. It is a breathable material that’s strong and resists odors. It is straightforward to figure with and might be plain-woven, knit or spun just.
– Silk simply absorbs dyes and may be a fantastic fashion and interiors alternative for its skillfulness and drape.
– Silks is bleached with low-impact and natural dyes.
– It is perishable and might be recycled.
– Handloom silks area unit made exploitation abundant less energy.
Silk has attracted people for millennia with its unique qualities of lightness and strength, durability, luster and brilliance. A silk strand has a greater tensile strength than steel, yet no other material drapes more luxuriously or flatters the body more. So, it makes our responsibility to be more productive in this field.
By Team “LEMON DROPS!”,
Mentor : A.S.M. Shahidullah (TFD 44; ID: 2018-1-6-013)
Leader : Jeba Samia (TFD 45; ID- 2019-1-6-035)
Executive : Rabeya Begum Mishu (TFD 46; ID-2020-1-6-34)
DEPARTMENT : TEXTILE FASHION & DESIGN (TFD)
BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES (BUTEX)
Image References:
Now as you have read about the history of muslin, we think you might also be interested in our another blog called Fashion in the 21st century.
Fashion in the 21st Century
You might also be interested in our another blog called Muslin: History of pride and sorrow. To read that, click here!
Muslin: History of Pride and Sorrow
Architecture Fabric: The New Use of Textiles as A Building Material
You can also read our another article written on the history of pattern and motif!
You can also read about our new article on Khadi, a traditional fabric of Bangladesh!
![Textile in Space: Flying Up to Reach the Stars (Chapter 2)]()
by Purba | May 10, 2021 | Academic |
Muslin is a word that has enchanted the world for the 17th and 18th century for its properties as well as craftsmanship. A pride of Bengal and a worthy opponent of royal clothes all over the world has a rich history. Let us explore today the breathtaking history and the extinction of the world’s finest cloth.
Origin of The Word “Muslin”
The origin of the word Muslin is unclear. Some say the word muslin comes from Mosul, an ancient trading center in Iraq. Again, some think that the word muslin is associated with Musalipattam, the one-time headquarters of a European trading company in southern India.
This word isn’t originated from Persian, Bangla or Sanskrit. Probably the clothes that the Europeans imported from Mosul and the clothes that were brought from other countries of the East through Mosul were called muslin. Then the finest cloth made in Dhaka was called muslin or should say Dhakai Muslin.
Some should say that It’s unclear who gave the name again some would say that it was definitely the Europeans who gave this name. Whoever gave the name, they may be didn’t think that one day this cloth will uphold a whole sub-continent or will be written with the history of pride and agony.
Royal “Muslin” History
When we talk about muslin, Mughal Empire’s name always popped out of history. While in the time of Mughal period the muslin clothing received royal patronage and it ensured another crucial quality certification from the people. Also, the announcement of Dhaka as the capital of Muslin made the trading of muslin to spread far from China to the Middle Eastern Country. The quality, the semitransparent look, the finest touch of craftsmanship attracted people from all over the world. Muslin was widely used to made gown or accessories in European countries.
The tradition of the textile industry in Bengal is quite ancient. At one time Bengal’s cotton cloth was exported to Rome and China. It is mentioned in Ptolemy’s Geography, Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, and in the descriptions of ancient Chinese travellers.
In 1851, Dhaka muslin became the dominant language in a huge exhibition in London and attracted a large number of visitors. British newspapers and magazines praised the excellence and delicacy of Dhaka muslin cloth.
Picture: Muslin as Royalty
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Mughal Bengal emerged as the foremost muslin exporter in the world, with Mughal Dhaka as the capital of the worldwide muslin trade.
Dhakai “Muslin”
The special environment of Dhaka, specially the bank of the river Brahmaputra was perfect to grow the “Phuti” Cotton. A cotton plant from which the cotton fiber was collected to make Dhakai Muslin. Quality of soil, level of moisture and other environmental factors also contributed to the growth of legendary cotton plant.
The threads that were produced from this cotton plant are both soft and strong. Craftsman weaved them by hand into the amazingly fine and beautiful muslin fabrics. Special skills were evolved over the ages and then passed down through the generations. These were used in the spinning and weaving of the amazing muslin fabric.
Dhakai Muslin.
As we are talking about that time when the total Indian subcontinent was under the rule of royalty, The maslin or “Malmal” was not only a type of cloth but it was produced with different count and different fineness. Some type of Muslins are:
- Malbus Khas– Used in Mughal royal family. 1 yard in length 10 yards in width. Weight lifting.
- Malmal Khas– The new muslin that was made for the kings after the Malbus Khas was discontinued in the 18th century.
- Sarkar-i-Ala– Nawab – Subedar used to use it. 1 yard in length 10 yards in width. Weight lifting 10.
- Ab-e-Rowan– was clear as clear water
- Jhuna– The women of the Mughal harem used to wear these clothes. It was also used by women of aristocratic families. The dancers used to dance while wearing clothes made from it.
- Shabnam– so fine that if it was dried on the grass in the morning, it could not be distinguished from dew.
- Badan Khas– used to enhance the beauty of the body of the wearer. Was particularly comfortable. Its weaving would not have been denser.
As mentioned before, muslin is a semi-transparent fabric, sometimes it was considered with fog for its dense look.
History of Agony
Muslin suffered a great loss when people were turning their attention to the machine-made cheap clothing. But not only one cause made the cloth to extinct from the world. So what were the agonies? Why did it extinct?
Cheap “industrial Cloth” vs Royal “Muslin”
During British colonial rule, the muslin industry was made down by various colonial policies, which supported imports of industrially manufactured textiles from Britain. These clothes were cheaper than the Muslin.
With the establishment of the East India Company’s monopoly over the trade of Bengal after the “Battle of Palashi, 1757”, the trade of other European companies and traders belonging to other nationals practically came to a stop.
Pay Tax!
A heavy duty of 75 percent was imposed on the export of cotton from Bengal which ultimately leads to the decline of muslin trade in Bengal because the traders suffered from loss.
Payment for Muslin with blood
Those families who used to made Muslin had to face the cruelty of the government because of the master craftsmanship. Their thumbs were cut off so that they couldn’t pass down the skill to other generation. But some says that the hands of the weavers were not British, but they cut off their own fingers so that the work of weaving would no longer have to be done.
Though the second one don’t have any historical mention but the first one was mentioned by William Bolts.
Thus the history was written and the muslin was extinct and the finest cloth that Bengal could produce was jamdani.
But after a lot of effort, the world again felt the softness of muslin with the revival of Muslin with the help of the Government and some people who wholeheartedly tried to revive the golden past, the glory, The Muslin.
Let’s hear that some other day! Till then stay safe and keep others safe around you!
By Team Bucolic Bohemian,
Umme Memory Mim
Textile Fashion and Design (2018-1-6-012)
Sabiha Moon Taha
Textile Fashion and Design (2019-1-6-006)
Md. Mahmud Hosen
Fabric Engineering (2020-1-2-006)
Reference:
- https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FMuslin&psig=AOvVaw3TcVw-GCwyrMOkvSKulydk&ust=1619869895794000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCJivreXzpfACFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD
- https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FCotton-Muslin-Fabric-Optic-White%2Fdp%2FB079VQZMTT&psig=AOvVaw3TcVw-GCwyrMOkvSKulydk&ust=1619869895794000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCJivreXzpfACFQAAAAAdAAAAABAp
You can also read another of our premium and all time trending article about Fashion in the 21st century here!
And if you want to read another one of our premium case studies on Fast Fashion Vs Slow Fashion, you can go here!
To know a bit about khadi, a traditional fabric of Bangladesh, you can go here!
History of Silk
You can also read our another article written on the history of pattern and motif!
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by Purba | May 8, 2021 | Top fashion news |
In this era, to be “out of fashion” is indeed to be out of the world. Why so? Well, we already know the reason. Fashion, which is as old as time and as new as tomorrow, is one of the most powerful forces in our life. It influences every sector of our lifestyle. So, to understand the living, breathing and evolving transformation in fashion industry is a need of the hour!
Although the Fashion Industry is considered to be the most glamorous and dynamic fields in the world, it is also difficult, demanding and unpredictable.
Despite the enchanting interplay of creativity, business hype and marketing wit, everything comes down to the bottom line if the fashion companies can’t get profit up to the mark.
In recent years, the fashion industries have undergone dramatic restructuring. The industry does not resemble the one that existed 20 years ago.
Just as fashion products change, the industry itself keep revolving. However, we have seen fashion retailers competing with each other to provide newly fashion trends revealed by fashion shows and runways.
Here are some factors which are driving the transformation in fashion industry:
Elevation of mass production
Prior to the mid 1980s , success in the fashion industry was dependent on low cost mass production of standard designs that did not change often due to the design restrictions of the factories. Evidently, consumers during that time were less conscious of style and fashion and mostly preferred basic apparel or wearings.
Fashion garments began to be mass produced towards the mid-20th century. People began to have more choices of garments as the bulk of production increased.
At the end of the 20th century, fashion awareness among people raised on the top, and they began to choose comfy as well as stylish clothes for themselves, instead of counting on the trends prevailing in the market.
Fast Fashion
Fast fashion is a very known term that has allowed anyone to dress following the latest trends whether he or she has the least of fashion sense.
Spending a little amount but dressing in a different way has become the norm for most people in the last two decades, and that is the reason driving the success of the “fast fashion” trend.
Customers love to see various products or designs every month and this has led to an increase in the demand for new fashion collections over a smaller span of time. And so, to be profitable in the industry, apparel retailers need to take the ‘speed to market’ approach to make profit on fashion that is not in the stores of their competitors.
By emerging small collections of merchandise, fashion retailers encourage consumers to visit their stores more frequently with the idea of ‘Here Today, Gone Tomorrow’. And it surely indicates a shorter life cycle of a particular design or a garment.
Difference in the styling of apparels. Courtesy: Pinterest.
Technological Impact
There was a time previously when the creation of garments required much time and skill, whereas today they are realised within a matter of minutes.
However, today is a combination of all techniques to have been practiced until now. Such as, some designers love to work with the very ancient spindle techniques for their woven styles, but might use a 3D printer for their footwear or ornaments.
The development of technology gives designers a wide choice of techniques to use and it arises constant opportunities. Moreover-
- Nowadays traditional design methods are being replaced by CAD (Computer-Aided Design), CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacturing) or many other designing platforms which minimizes the time of sketching on paper, draping fabrics on mannequins or having a proper measurement. And so these technologies allow the designers to make any kind of changes required for the desired silhouette or fabric trimmings.
- For having a true-to life garment visualization or virtual sampling, we can now easily use some 3D designing software like CLO, Marvelous Designer, MAYA, TUKA 3D etc. Most of our fashion industries get benefited from these 3D garment simulations; as these have gradually reduced the machinery cost or labour cost.
- High-intensity lasers or computer-guided knives are a great replacement of traditional pattern making system as one can get many layers of fabric all at once. But these technologies are mainly used in making expensive apparels.
Pattern making. Courtesy: Pexels.
The assembling of ancient and modern techniques depicts that designers can choose the most sustainable options, and drive the evolution of fashion towards sustainability.
Online shopping & E-commerce for smoothing the digital transformation in fashion industry
Today’s digital world is more and more interconnected with our fashion industry. Digital platforms are becoming prevalent in the fashion market. Every now and then we can see many new brands are emerging with the development of e-commerce, which allows companies to engage consumers through virtual reality.
- The global pandemic (COVID-19) has transformed the way consumers behave and made it amply clears how technology can be lifted to accumulate sales even when consumers are locked in their homes.
- Another withholding factor to the rise of e-commerce is the availability of smartphones and devices. Moreover, there is a huge upsurge in 4G and 5G adoption, which indicates a developed infrastructure of a country.
- While renowned fashion businesses have already joined the e-commerce bandwagon, small shops or boutiques are now also seen entering the homes of prospective buyers via fashion apps, social media pages and garnering followers. As a result, customisation has evolved; creating one’s own shopping basket, having discounts and loyalty points on shopping sites have now become a rewarding experience.
- During this social media era, the fashion industry is experiencing the increasing role of influencers, as consumers look at their lifestyle as more authentic and attractive than habitual advertisements. Influencers are considered as close to the common people because they are not models and are not forced to make a campaign, but wear what they like and what flaunts their body well; they also show their outfits during regular days or in common. Thus it gets easier for ordinary people or customers to adopt the trend followed by the influencers.
The adoption and popularity of e-commerce have manifested that being digital is the only way forward. As consumers build on their impulses, fashion platforms need to up their game to personalize their offerings to the varied tastes and build predictability within their boundaries, to better purchase experiences.
Customization of a particular attire brings the transformation in fashion industry
Personalization:
Consumers have become more squeamish and more demanding during the last few years. It builds a high expectation for quality products among the consumers. They choose fashion items according to their values and their personal style. To cope up with the expectations, fashion companies have to understand how to offer product that customers will perceive as unique. Many fashion companies have followed this trend by enlightening their product portfolio and becoming more and more “multi-style brands”.
Sometimes the company has to think about what is the difference that makes the product of a brand incomparable for both customers and competitors. A wrong choice can instantly destroy the brand reputation, thus they have to be very careful with the selection.
The fashion industry is one of innovation, vision and diversity. And of course, we do not need a reminder of this, but in the fast pace of life, it can be easy to get caught in the rapid movement of our works with all the deadlines and trends. We need to juggle with our innovative ideas, customer feedback and our internal communications as well as to create beautiful and sustainable garments as quickly as possible, following the brand’s image and values.
By Team Saturnine,
Mentor: Tanvir Ahamed Fahad; Id:2018-1-6-026
Leader: Atkia Faiza; Id: 2019-1-6-020
Executive: Md. Asaduzzaman Ovi; Id:2020-1-6-020
Dept: Textile Fashion & Design
Photo References:
- Image 1: Unsplash
- Image 2: Pinterest
- Image 3: Pexels
- Image 4: Pexels
You can also read another of our premium content on Fashion in the 21st century!
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by Purba | May 7, 2021 | Shout out |
Fashionnovation is committed to introduce you with unique, sustainable, rising fashion brands and the masterminds behind them. In today’s Fashionnovation article, we get the humble opportunity to introduce you with Pola De Giovanni, a UK based textile designer, a mixed media artist and a graduate of the London College of Fashion, MA-Fashion Studies. In October 2019 she set up her creative business Meanmagenta Art & Photography. In this exclusive article, we will explore her soothing works.
How Paola’s venture started?
During the global epidemic, Paola has discovered the ancient ink painting technique called marbling and put together an impressive body of prints. Paola describes this medium as a form of active meditation: soothing, liberating and empowering. What started as a creative way to cope with the emotional stress caused by the pandemic, soon became a stunning range of wall art, cushions and silk/velvet scarves.
Her marbling artwork is often digitally put into repeats to create seamless and symmetrical patterns to suggest balance, reciprocity and elegance.
Product range?
Paola’s marbling art is available as limited editions of matt prints, in various formats and they all have a Certificate of Authenticity, each artwork is printed on matt Hahnemuhle paper, and archival inks to guarantee color fastness.
Also available as cotton/velvet cushions, bean bags, silk/velvet scarves, and soon as lamp shades and wallpaper.
Paola’s latest works on marbling wall art. Image courtesy: Meanmagenta Art and Photography.
What’s Paola’s take on sustainability?
Paola believes in using sustainable materials and only uses inks that do not pollute the environment. She uses recycled canvases, recycled cotton rags transformed into stretched canvases. She will also soon launch a collection of monochrome versions of her marbling prints, and marketed as mindfulness coloring art prints.
Paola tells Fashionnovation she is on a mission to banish boring white walls and fill as many homes and offices as possible with her uplifting and bright wall art: “I want to bring colors, art, joy into people’s home through my product range. Art heals, engages, brightens people’s lives, and awakens the creative who is inside us”.
Meanmagenta Marbling wall art and accessories range are a great gift idea all year round.
Paola’s latest works on marbling wall art. Image courtesy: Meanmagenta Art and Photography.
In late August Paola will exhibit her marbled cushions and scarves at the London Accessories Week, a collective exhibition organised by X Terrace Fashion Platform https://www.londonaccessoryweek.com
Paola is based in the UK, but she is open to the world of online and offline global opportunities: she accepts orders, bespoke commissions and collaborations with stylists, interior designers and art buyers, please reach out via her social media channels or simply email her:
paola_degio@yahoo.co.ukIf you have any initiative like Pola De Giovanni or have to say something to the world, feel free to contact us and get featured in fashionnovation! Our email address: fashionnovationfd@gmail.com
